Day 32 [Delhi] Last But Not Least

I WAITED UNTIL THE LAST SECOND BEFORE RETURNING TO DELHI. Delhi still gives me nightmares and although the monuments are worth visiting, the city is too wearisome for a foreign traveler.

On my last day in India,  I already had plans for my next visit brewing in my head. Due to the floods, I did not get to visit Ladakh and Kashimiri valleys this time. From traveler’s tale, I’ve heard so many good things of the Goan beaches and Kerala’s backwaters. I want to experience South India’s hospitality and food, as well as visit the holy cities of Varanasi and Bodhgaya. With so many places to cover, I think I have to make up at least 2 months to come back in the future.

To me, travel has always been a necessity in life. Be it local or international destinations, going for a trip on a regular basis frees my mind and gives me inspirations. I even have plans for a lengthy one-year trip coming up as soon as I settle the financial, family and career part.

Looking back at the one month spent here, I have to confess that India brought me more difficulty than comfort. But my enjoyment comes from the daily cultural shocks that I have even until today, and from the interesting people that I meet occasionally. The traditions and religions seen here repeatedly challenge my thoughts, altering many of previous perceptions of family relationships and devotion to faith.

I WAS CHEATED YET AGAIN BY THE TUK-TUK DRIVER. At the Delhi bus station, the driver and his bunch lied to me that the airport is 30km away and asked for Rs 300. According to my book, it was at most 10km away and so I requested to decrease the fare to Rs 100. After bargaining for more than 10 minutes (and with several nearby drivers), I had to settle with Rs 150. But, when I got to my destination, the trip took 7km, much less than the 30km that he claimed. I paid my fare reluctantly, but had to laugh at the fact that although India is strenuous, this also my last day here.

I now recall all the slums and dirty streets in Delhi, and the transition into ultra modern and efficient airport terminal. Such huge differences occur similarly in its people and land, and that is why India is ranked as one of the most all-in-one destinations in the world. I have done justice to only one quarter of India, and three quarters more to explore. As I fly back home, I have to now add another item on my to-do list — ‘Come back to India soon’.

I managed to visit on of the fancy emporiums in New Delhi. Although similar to those in Malaysia and Taiwan, the security here is insanely strict. Baggage checks and metal sensors at all entrances.

 

Had one too many bad experiences with the tuk-tuk (not this particular one)

Day 31 [Agra] Once In A Lifetime

THE TAJ MAHAL IS ONE OF THE PLACES THAT ONE SHOULD VISIT ONCE IN A LIFETIME. Its entrance ticket costs a whooping Rs 750 for foreigners (Rs 20 for Indians), but even an hour in it should worth all the money, time and effort. Inspiration to many, Taj Mahal is an architectural wonder that leaves people marveling at its beauty and envious about its romance.

The age old story of the Emperor Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal after the death of his favorite wife, Empress Mumtaz, is visible through Taj Mahal’s elaborate design and delicate marble work. Perfectly symmetric, it lies on the bank of the Yamuna river, and has a beautiful green lawn corridor at its front. Two symmetric buildings of red lie on its sides, giving great contrast for its pure gentle white. One of it is a mosque, which one can take a snapshot of the Taj Mahal from its inside.

Walking around the Taj Mahal is a staggering experience. You feel dwarfed by its enormity but bonded by its vulnerability. It is sturdy to the weather, yet reveals a weepy heart break story that most people can relate to. Crowds constantly swarm this monument, but fortunately, it is large enough to drown out all the noise and scattering. I can’t stop taking photos of it, but no matter how hard I tried, none of them can replace being in its presence.

Agra however, is not an attractive city if not for its Taj Mahal and nearby fort. Badly polluted and filled with touts, it is only second on my list of most difficult Indian cities (after Delhi). I skipped the fort just because I got fort-out too many times I can’t remember. My room was comfortable enough and the TV has Star World and Travel Living channels so I stayed most of my time chilling out with comedies and travel shows.

Photogenic view of the entrance gate from the Taj

 

It is truly amazing to stand under the marble arches of the Taj Mahal

 

When you have too much time to kill in the Taj Mahal, do what I do, sit in the mosque and observe if the Taj moves

 

ONE THING WORTH MENTIONING IS THE FOOD HERE AT TAJ GANJ, which is the nearest area filled with budget accommodations outside Taj Mahal. Joney’s spinach omelet and cheese tomato jayfelles are one of my best continental breakfasts I had in India. Yash cafe’s thali is not spicy and very affordable. Both are mentioned in the guidebook and deserved further recommendations from here.

Other than the bothersome touts that give you headaches, Agra is still the most worth visiting city in India. Don’t try traveling nearby and not give it a day. I won’t be coming back for seconds, but I’ll definitely remember this once in a lifetime experience.

Day 30 [Fatehpur Sikri] Overcoming Fear

I AM SOMEWHAT INTIMIDATED BY THE THOUGHT OF VISITING FATEHPUR SIKRI, THE FORTIFIED GHOST CITY. Who knows if it is really haunted? The bus arrived at the main bazaar of this city during a heavy shower, with half of the town ankle-deep in water. Already 2pm in the afternoon, I wasted no time, and started the short trek up to the mountains.

The town was inhabited, not by lonely spirits, but by people, who are busy tending to their buying and selling in the markets. A young man approached me offering his guesthouse luggage storage facility, which I happily accepted. Upon seeing the view of the nearby fields from the guesthouse and the cheap room with attached bathroom, I had to stay for the night. (Mostly for the cheap room, I am stingy)

With less burden on more shoulders, I had more energy to go explore the ghost city. Built during the Mughal dynasty by the Emperor Akbar, this World Heritage Site boasts of an uniform Indo-Muslim architectural style, but is abandoned soon after completion due to scarcity of water. The magnificent gate, Buland Darwaza, the biggest in Asia, brings us back to the brilliant reign of Akbar. The gate leads to a beautiful mosque which is still used until today, hardly spooky at all.

The nearby palaces are quite impressive. With architectural influences from the Hindu, Islam and Persian artists, they serve as good representations of the Mughal art. The insides of the buildings are now empty, but the ornamental designs on the walls are pretty well preserved. Along with me at the complexes are groups of foreigners and buses of local tourists, not in any way lifeless.

The largest gate of its kind in Asia, this towering entrance to the Jama Masjid captivates all visitors

 

A marble cenotaph with graveyards by its sides at the centre of the Jama Masjid

 

Whimsical architectures surround the palace

 

BACK AT THE MOSQUE, AS WE NEAR THE END OF THE RAMADAN MONTH FOR THE MOSLEMS, a festival is held here with drums, music and fairs. I sat at the mosque, just chilling out waiting for the sun to set, and was continuously approached by children selling postcards, pens and marble souvenirs. Different touts come and go and alas I was surrounded by four English-speaking twenty-year-olds who work as guides at the mosque. Now knowing that I had seen all of the sites, they have no money interest in me and thus we started chatting as new found friends.

“How much do you earn a day?” I asked.

“Rs 400 if it is a good day, but mostly Rs 200.” said one of the man in near perfect British accent. Apparently, they never went to school, but learned the language and the trade with years of practice, some starting at the age of seven.

“Can I ask you something?” the man with a beard, a bandana, long locks and eyeliners asked, looking suspicious. He did have a canny resemblance to Johnny Depp’s character in ‘Pirates of the Carribean’.

“Sure,” I answered, but with doubt, hoping that he does not want anything to do with my money. But then, they insisted that we move 10 meters away from the platform I was sitting on, telling me that it is not good to start the discussion on mosque grounds.

Then he said, “Do your people marry out of love or arrangement?”. I sighed a relief. The age-old question that I have been asked many times in India.

“We marry out of love but people in the past do have arranged marriages,” I replied though I had prepared this for a million times.

“Next question,” the man seemed desperate, and I thought he now has a curious look in his eyes. “If you find a bad girl, you like her but your parents don’t agree, what will you do?” Hmmm…. Then he goes on, “If you have baby with girlfriend, what do you do?” To them, these are taboo questions, not allowed by religion and not by the society.

“Can you buy condoms easily?”, “The thing that comes out from the man during sex, is it from the knees?”, “Did you learned about sex during school?”. I have to admit that I felt a little uncomfortable speaking about this with complete strangers, but they showed such enthusiasm, and I am the only person to ask. Most of them had no formal education, and has little exposure outside their villages. Even with the hundreds of foreigners visiting here everyday, few had the time to sit and chat with them. Fewer with the patience to endure their differences. I wonder if I curbed their enthusiasm, but I really liked the thought of helping out.

THE GUESTHOUSE IS REALLY NICE FOR ITS SUNSET VIEW, AND EVEN BETTER TO GAZE AT THE STARS BECAUSE THE POWER IS ALWAYS DOWN. Their old generators provide electricity but only for only tens of minutes before either the gasoline runs out or something gets jammed in it. I am not afraid of the dark but I don’t like it. Imagine being in a dark room alone, hot and sweaty, and finding more than 50 crickets beside you. Yikes! The crickets jump to your bed and onto you and then away, doing nothing to you, but making it difficult to fall asleep. The next morning, I was even more shocked to find hundreds of crickets nesting on the room’s wall! All in all, the ghost city is indeed scary, not because of the dead, but their very alive insects.

My own private balcony with a view of the sunset

 

A whole community of crickets that I reluctantly shared my room with

Day 29 [Jaipur] Victorious Me

JAIPUR, THE PINK CITY, IS ALSO KNOWN AS THE CITY OF VICTORY. With only two more days to go before I finish my India trip, I am ready to claim my victory against this confusing country. Now a cheeky traveler, I always get rooms Rs 50-100 cheaper than the starting price, and souvenirs at half of what other travelers paid.

Proud of my bargain catch from yesterday, I showed the silk scarfs and knitted cotton pashminas, Rs 100 each, to my host, Sunny. I grinned happily when I told them that 2 Chinese backpackers got theirs for Rs 250 each. Heehee~ Sunny suggested that I buy spices from here, they have Rajasthani spices that are only available at these local markets. He brought me to a shop, where the spices are way cheaper than in the tourist bazaars, and I bought all the essential spices he recommended. (Except for saffron because 0.5 grams go for Rs 300)

I celebrated my cheap buys with a Bollywood cinema treat at the Rajmandir Cinema. Known as the largest and oldest in town, the interior decorations are grandiose and is well splurged with crystal chandeliers and expensive carpets. For Rs 150, I got the diamond seating, which has its own lounge to relax prior to opening and gives exceptionally good view. The movie ‘We Are Family’ is far from the stereotyped singing and dancing Bollywood flicks. This comedy-drama earned my tears and two thumbs up for its family-oriented emotional plot.

Wanting to keep on with the celebration, I indulged myself to a special glass of lassi and samosas with chola (chickpeas in tomato gravy). Highly recommended by the Lonely Planet guidebook, this shop serves lassi in clay glasses, emphasizing its Indian authenticity.

Lucky for me because when I was about to board the bus back to my host’s home, he called me telling me that he was nearby. “Frankie, where are you?” he said with much excitement. “I am at Choti Chaupar,” I replied. “What a coincidence, I am near, come find me.” So, my host and I met in the middle of the city. He brought me for tasty Kachori (friend bread with spicy onions) and then home on his bike, saving me even more transportation fees.

Luck struck many times during this day, and I am happy and contended to wave goodbye to India with pride. India may be bewildering and demanding, but this little traveler can soon claim his victory with his patience and strong will.

The Hawa Mahal is one of the most beautiful architecture in Jaipur

 

“We Are Family” at the Raj Mandir cinema

 

With Rp 150, you get boxed theater sets with a private lounge to rest before the show starts

Day 28 [Jaipur] White, Black, Yellow And Pink

JAIPUR, ALSO KNOWN AS THE PINK CITY, RECEIVED MUCH CONFUSION ON ITS STREET when the odd-looking trio take in all its main attractions. Emilie, a Belgian French and his Senegali French boyfriend, Gueye are an uncommon couple. “Black and white?” the people would say when they see them holding hands, “This is impossible!”. With me added in, the yellow-skinned East Asian, the three of us left Jaipurians staring in confusion and curiosity.

“Which country?” passersby would ask, some taking photos of us on their phones. “Which country?” they would repeat with their limited English. Although we enjoyed the attention, we had to attend to our main goal of sightseeing. Emilie, being a hard bargainer, got us a tuk-tuk for a full day of transportation at Rs 450. We hopped on happily and went first to the Central Museum.

We took pictures outside the museum, with Emilie chasing after the pigeons and me posing in front of the building. Then our tuk-tuk driver changed his mind and asked for Rs 800. The confused and non-English speaking driver tried to increase our fare but we left to find another one. Once again, Emilie found one for Rs 500 which was fair enough.

The cenotaphs of the earlier Maharanis was interesting but a little under-maintained. The lake palace has charming reflections on the water but only good for a quick photo. There was one unusual temple which has all religions in it which was really cool. The Hindu gods, Sikh gurus and Buddha were all worshiped together.

The beautiful Lake Palace which is currently not accessible

 

This is the temple that celebrates the diversity of religion. Look at the Sikh gurus, Buddha and Hindu lords all worshiped together

 

Emilie mingling around with the local women

 

AMBER, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF JAIPUR, HAS A FORT THAT IS WORTH VISITING. Although it is 30km away from the city, the reddish fort surrounding the neighboring hills, is stunning to look at, and is similar to the Great Wall of China. Elephants give rides to the top of the fort, but I only took a couple of photos of them. (Gueye and Emilie probably took more than 20) Views from the top are amazing, but most of the fort is empty rooms and corridors. Black Gueye, white Emilie and yellow me braved the maze-like fort structure in search of a staicase to a higher floor. We did not find one, but was happy getting lost.

“200 Rupees for 10,” a boy said to Emilie, showing her some beautifully decorated pens. “100 Rupees for 10,” the boy pleaded again after receiving numerous no’s from Emilie. After a few minutes of bargaining, she finally got it for Rs 70.

“She’s good,” I said to Gueye, “Ya, she’s proud of it,” said Gueye. Emilie smiled with pride. “Always ask for half the price, you’ll know they are making enough money.” she said with thorough common sense and seasoned shopper-ish.

Having done all the sites, we traveled back on our tuk-tuk with contend. But, when we entered the old city, there was a terrible traffic jam and we never expected to get out of it. Our tuk-tuk then gave an incredible performance of Indian driving skills and whizzed us out in no time. Several close calls with cows, pedestrians and buses left the French couple screaming in shock. I screamed too but was enjoying the ride until… 5km from our place, the tuk-tuk broke down.

“Quite an eventful day huh?” I asked them. “Typical India,” So, the three of us went walking back home, while the stares from locals continued. “We are a very unusual group, aren’t we?” said Gueye. I agreed, but even with our unmatching skin color, India always wins with her unpredictable awkwardness.

The majestic Amber fort from afar

 

Elephants carry tourists up and down the fort

 

The very heavily decorated Amber fort

Day 27 [Surya Nagar] The Big Bhang

SURYA NAGAR IS A SUBURBAN RESIDENTIAL AREA IN JAIPUR, which I did not left for the whole day. After arriving 6am in Jaipur. I took a tuk-tuk to Sunny’s house in Surya Nagar. My stay at Sunny’s place would be my first offical stay at a Couchsurfer’s home with the family. Having high expectations for this, I sighed a quick relief when I noticed how big-hearted my host is.

Sunny works for a British insurance company and lives in a big house with his lovely wife, Neelam and cheerful brother, Sumit. My room at the basement is spacious yet secluded, and I enjoyed a long nap after the bumpy overnight train.

The whole afternoon was spent drinking tea, and chilling out with Sumit while discussing Jainism and Indian food. I was contended with relaxing near the village and watching people at the nearby temple getting ready for tonight’s Lord Krishna’s festival. This being India, I expected surprises, but today was so peaceful, I laid my guard down. Up until evening, everything seemed really calming.

We were then joined by two other couchsurfers, Gueye and Emilie, a couple from France. We bought vegetables while I practiced my broken Hindi at the local market. We showed great team effort while peeling and chopping up them. We were told that Sunny is a great cook. I sat by his side the whole night (at the rooftop), listening to him explaining all the complicated steps in cooking mixed vegetable curry. All the spices were added at different timings with different amounts, such delicacy never seen back in my kitchen.

Until now, all seemed normal, and we had our dinner on the floor with thick chapatis filling our stomachs. Sunny offered to let us taste Bhang lassi, a local drink which contains Bhang, a type of plant grown only in Rajasthan. Bhang is often compared to marijuana for its ecstasy effects, but it is a legal drug here, and does little harm to the body.

Always seeking for an adventure, me and Gueye agreed to try, and the expert Bhang lassi maker, Sumit, made us two glasses each. It tasted like sweet lassi with a little spices but it looked green, similar to a spinach shake. After an hour, we all started feeling tipsy, and Sumit was constantly laughing on the floor.

For me, the Bhang felt unusual. I was relaxed but my mind wanders so fast it feels like it is going to explode. After a few rounds of stupid games and card tricks, Gueye started to speak differently and seemed very confused.

The night ended early, because Sunny thought that it would be better that we all rested before we got too high. I felt my mind racing for another two hours while I lay on my bed, before throwing up my very heavy dinner. It was really embarassing, but I felt better thereafter. So, after a night of craziness, I went to sleep, the best sleep I had in India. No headaches or hangover, but it felt like a really big bang on your head, just like its name – Bhang. (Bhang is said to give good sleep, leaving the person energized and focused the next day)

Chopping vegetables on the floor, very Indian-like ain’t it?

 

Sunny is the chef of the day, Gueye serves as his personal photographer

 

Vegetable curry – the end product of our team effort

 

The curious Bhang lassi that has effects resembling marijuana

Day 26 [Udaipur] Eye-ing For Red

LAST DAY IN UDAIPUR BUT I HAVE YET TO FALL IN LOVE. Maybe the lake is not magical after all. Or maybe I am not trying hard enough? Instead of spending time with people, I sat at the lakeside cafe for hours. With an order of 7-Ip (the only drink I can afford), surfed the net from my mobile phone, finished all my past writing, and read my Jhumpa Lahiri second-hand book. I can sit until my eye reddens, which is now my first concern.  However, even when it is not raining, cool breeze blows through the lake, calming all the senses. Dragonflies dance above the waters while flight of birds scoot across the grey cloudy skies with their shadows reflect and fading below them. The cafe puts cool hip English tracks, its tiled floor lends it a Parisien feel. Udaipur is a city made for lovers, and also for those self-loving narcissists like me.

My eyes did not red yet, although I have been meeting many people with the ‘eye flu’, or viral conjunctivitis, probably caused by the adenovirus. The disease has a 5-7 days incubation period so shaking someone’s hand a week ago may just make you sick now. Highly contagious, the disease spreads even via airborne droplets when people talk.

Still with good visibility, I enjoyed looking at the brightly lit Jadgish temple, in celebration of the Lord Krishna’s birthday. This tall temple was built in Indo-Aryan architecture and has two marble elephants guarding its gate. Worshippers flock to pray here, but only after a day’s of fasting. I prayed as well, secretly hiding the fact that I just had three ‘kehlas’ (bananas).

The cafe where I rested and wrote this post while looking at the lake

 

The Jagdish temple are brightly lit for the Krishna’s festival

 

THE BAGORE-KI-HAVELI IS A BEAUTIFUL MANSION BUILT IN THE 16TH CENTURY, with a wide informative museum. Every night at seven, world class Rajasthani performances can be enjoyed with merely Rs 60 per person. The musicians are very entertaining, and they seemed very happy doing their jobs. The dance where girls balance a pot of fire on their heads was amazing. The one where women clink-clank their metal cymbals in synchrony was wonderful. But, the best was one where a lady balanced a pot on her head, danced around in circles, walked on glass and continued to add pots onto her head until it was nearly touching the ceiling. My eyes were not red yet but they nearly popped out in awe during the stunt.

After the show, I walked the now busy bazaar near the temple in search of the cheapest bottle of mineral water. It was then when an unlucky bug flew into one of my eyes, bring much discomfort and itching. At the end, I did get the red eye (that I silently wished for the whole day), not from a handshake, but from a bug flying with bad eyesight.

Women dance for their lives with a pot of fire on their heads

 

An amazing world class performance by an Indian lady balancing pots on her head while dancing around

 

Dhristi (left) is the one with red eye. Friends I enjoyed having chats with in Udaipur.